Combine the sugar, flour, salt (if using unsalted
butter), cocoa, eggs and melted butter and mix.
Do this by hand, until the dry ingredients are
just incorporated into the wet, and stop. You
don’t need to beat it, and in fact want to avoid
producing gluten from the flour. (Kneading flour
produces gluten, the springy protein that makes
bread chewy.) Stir in the chocolate chips.
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